Tokyo has more “star” than any other city in the world
Release date: November 19, 2007 TOKYO --
The first edition of the MICHELIN guide Tokyo has been released today.
For its venture into Asia, the MICHELIN guide offers a selection of the best hotels and restaurants in the center of Tokyo, a total of 178 establishments of which 28 hotels and 150 restaurants.
Available in English and Japanese version, the MICHELIN guide Tokyo 2008 has one particularity that sets it apart from other guides in the collection: All the restaurants in the guide have been awarded stars. The initial selection includes 8 restaurants with three stars, 25 with two stars, and 117 with one star. With 191 stars in all, Tokyo has become the world leader in gourmet dining with more "stars" than any other city. And to honor its outstanding cuisine, the unrivaled quality of the products used, the cooking techniques employed, its rich heritage and its culinary traditions, which are passed on from one generation to the next, the selection in the MICHELIN guide Tokyo 2008 is comprised exclusively of "starred" restaurants.
One starmeans a very good restaurant in its category.
Two stars mean excellent cooking, worth a detour.
Three stars mean exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.
A restaurant that receives one or more stars is not only one of the best in its country but also one of the best in the world.
In Japan, as in the 21 other countries covered by the MICHELIN guide, a consistent selection is ensured by awarding stars based on the same criteria: product quality, preparation and flavors, the chef's personality as revealed through his cuisine, value for money, and consistency over time and across the entire menu. The criteria are adapted to each type of cuisine, notably Japanese cooking styles.
In the first edition of the MICHELIN guide Tokyo, the focus is clearly on Japanese cuisine, which is being served in more than 60% of the selected restaurants. The major culinary styles are represented, including kaiseki, fugu, soba kaiseki, sushi, tempura, teppan yaki and unagi. The remaining 40% is comprised of French, Italian, Spanish, Chinese restaurants, etc.
In this first edition of a MICHELIN guide devoted to Asia, each hotel or restaurant is presented on a double-page spread. The left-hand page features pictures of the establishment, its classification and the number of stars received, while the right-hand page provides the reader with a description of the restaurant and its cuisine, a photo of the entrance and an access plan.
Thanks to a rigorous selection process that is applied independently and consistently around the world, the MICHELIN guide has become an international benchmark in gourmet dining. The selection is prepared by anonymous and experienced inspectors, Michelin employees, who pay their hotel and restaurant bills in full. This first selection was made by a team of five Japanese and European inspectors. In a city with some 160,000 restaurants, they pre-selected around 1,500 establishments and, after more than a year and a half of anonymous meals, narrowed down their selection to 150 restaurants.
The first MICHELIN guide was published in France in August 1900. Today, 108 years later, the collection comprises 21 guides covering 22 countries. In addition to 20 countries in Europe (since the addition of the first MICHELIN guide Austria in 2005), the collection also includes North America, which is covered through four guides: New York City (with the thrd edition released in early October 2007), San Francisco, Bay Area & Wine Country (a second edition released in late October), and Los Angeles and Las Vegas, whose first editions were released just a few days ago.
In Europe, the collection includes 16 guides, the most recent being the English versions of the MICHELIN guide France and the MICHELIN guide Paris, both aimed at the some 70 million people who visit France each year.
Two versions of the MICHELIN guide Tokyo 2008 are available - a standard edition and a special boxed set that includes the Saga of the MICHELIN guide, a small volume filled with anecdotes relating the history of the guide from its origins in 1900 to the present.
The MICHELIN guide Tokyo 2008 goes on sale, in France, at the beginning of February at the price of 14,50 euros.
MICHELIN Guide Tokyo 2008: The Selection
Total number of restaurants | One star () | Two stars () | Three stars () |
150 | 117 | 25 | 8 |
Award | Category of comfort | Type of cuisine | |
Hamadaya | Japanese | ||
Joël Robuchon | French contemporary | ||
Kanada | Japanese | ||
Koju | Japanese | ||
L'Osier | French | ||
Quintessence | French contemporary | ||
Sukiyabashi Jiro | Japanese sushi | ||
Sushi Mizutani | Japanese sushi | ||
Aimée Vibert | French | ||
Cuisine(s) Michel Troisgros | French contemporary | ||
Daigo | Japanese | ||
Esaki | Japanese | ||
Fukudaya | Japanese | ||
Hishinuma | Japanese | ||
Ichimonji | Japanese | ||
Ishikawa | Japanese | ||
Kikunoi | Japanese | ||
Kogetsu | Japanese | ||
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon | French contemporary | ||
Le Mange-Tout | French contemporary | ||
Pierre Gagnaire | French contemporary | ||
Reikasai | Chinese | ||
Ristorante Aso | Italian contemporary | ||
Ryugin | Japanese contemporary | ||
Sant Pau | Spanish contemporary | ||
Sawada | Japanese sushi | ||
Sushi Kanesaka | Japanese sushi | ||
Taku | Japanese sushi | ||
Tsukiji Uemura | Japanese | ||
Tsukiji Yamamoto | Japanese fugu | ||
Twenty One | French | ||
Usukifugu Yamadaya | Japanese fugu | ||
Wako | Japanese | ||
Abe | Japanese | ||
Ajiman | Japanese fugu | ||
Aragawa | Steakhouse | ||
Arai | Japanese | ||
Arbace | French | ||
Argento Aso | Italian contemporary | ||
Aroma-Frèsca | Italian contemporary | ||
Asagi | Japanese tempura | ||
Au Goût du Jour Nouvelle Ere | French | ||
Banrekiryukodo | Japanese | ||
Beige | French contemporary | ||
Benoit | French contemporary | ||
Chemins | French contemporary | ||
Chez Inno | French | ||
Chez Matsuo | French | ||
Chez Tomo | French contemporary | ||
Chikuyotei | Japanese unagi | ||
China Blue | Chinese | ||
Chugoku Hanten Fureika | Chinese | ||
Cogito | French | ||
Coucagno | French contemporary | ||
Crescent | French | ||
Cucina Hirata | Italian | ||
Dons de la Nature | Steakhouse | ||
Fukamachi | Japanese tempura | ||
Fukuju | Japanese | ||
Gastronomie Française Tateru Yoshino | French contemporary | ||
Ginza La Tour | French | ||
Ginza Sushiko Honten | Japanese sushi | ||
Hanasanshou | Japanese | ||
Harutaka | Japanese sushi | ||
Higuchi | Japanese | ||
Hinokizaka | Japanese | ||
Hiramatsu | French | ||
Hirosaku | Japanese | ||
Keyakizaka | Japanese teppan yaki | ||
Kikumi | Japanese | ||
Komuro | Japanese | ||
Kondo | Japanese tempura | ||
Kosetsu | Japanese soba kaiseki | ||
Kyubey | Japanese sushi | ||
La Bombance | Japanese contemporary | ||
La Cave Hiramatsu | French | ||
L'Alliance | French contemporary | ||
L'Anneau d'Or | French | ||
La Primula | Italian contemporary | ||
La Table de Joël Robuchon | French contemporary | ||
La Tour d'Argent | French | ||
La Tourelle | French | ||
Le Jeu de l'Assiette | French contemporary | ||
L'Embellir | French contemporary | ||
Les Créations de Narisawa | French contemporary | ||
Les Enfants Gâtés | French | ||
Le 6eme Sens | French contemporary | ||
Les Saisons | French | ||
Maison d'Umemoto Shang-hai | Chinese | ||
Maison Paul Bocuse | French | ||
Makimura | Japanese | ||
Minoichi | Japanese | ||
Miravile | French | ||
Momonoki | Chinese | ||
Monnalisa | French | ||
Morimoto XEX | Japanese teppan yaki | ||
Muroi | Japanese | ||
Mutsukari | Japanese contemporary | ||
Nadaman New Otani | Japanese | ||
Nadaman Sazanka So | Japanese | ||
Nakajima | Japanese | ||
Narukami | French | ||
Ogasawara Hakushakutei | Spanish contemporary | ||
Ohara et Cie | French | ||
Ohara's | French | ||
Ohno | Japanese | ||
Okina | Japanese soba kaiseki | ||
Ozaki | Japanese | ||
Piatto Suzuki | Italian | ||
Ristorante Hamasaki | Italian contemporary | ||
Ristorante Honda | Italian contemporary | ||
Sakuragaoka | Japanese | ||
Sakuragawa | Japanese | ||
Sankame | Japanese | ||
Sasada | Japanese | ||
Sazanka | Japanese teppan yaki | ||
Sekihotei | Japanese | ||
Shigeyoshi | Japanese | ||
Shin | Japanese sushi | ||
Shofukuro | Japanese | ||
Signature | French contemporary | ||
Sugawara | Japanese | ||
Sushi Nakamura | Japanese sushi | ||
Sushi Ohno | Japanese sushi | ||
Sushi Saito | Japanese sushi | ||
Suhisho Saito | Japanese sushi | ||
Suzuki | Japanese | ||
Tahara | Japanese | ||
Takeyabu | Japanese soba kaiseki | ||
Tateru Yoshino | French contemporary | ||
Tatsumura | Japanese | ||
The Georgian Club | French | ||
Tofuya Ukai | Japanese | ||
Tomura | Japanese | ||
Toyoda | Japanese | ||
Uchiyama | Japanese | ||
Ukai - Tei | Japanese teppan yaki | ||
Umi | Japanese sushi | ||
Uotoku | Japanese | ||
Waketokuyama | Japanese | ||
Yamane | Japanese fugu | ||
Yamasaki | Japanese | ||
Yebisu | Japanese teppan yaki | ||
Yokota | Japanese tempura | ||
Yonemura | Japanese contemporary | ||
Yoneyama | Japanese | ||
Yotaro | Japanese tempura | ||
Yukicho | Japanese | ||
Yukimura | Japanese | ||
Yûta | Japanese sushi |
from: Michelin Guide
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米其林評鑑》桃太郎哈吃 盛況如哈七 |
世界美食評鑑權威米其林去年進軍日本,發行東京指南,8家三星餐廳、總星數191顆引起矚目,日本人愛好美食的文化則是這股旋風的推手。 米其林評鑑東京版去年一上市,首刷9萬本不到24小時全數售罄,當年紐約指南發行一年後,銷量也不過是這個數字。這本11月下旬才發售的美食評鑑,甚至躋身2007日本年度暢銷書之林。米其林指南負責人納黑(Jean-Luc Naret)笑著說:「此等盛況好比哈利波特第七集上市一般。」 日本人對美食的追求早已不是新鮮事。不論是上班族或家庭主婦,都甘願排上幾小時隊,等著進入報章雜誌報導的名店大快朵頤。日本的電視節目近1/3和吃有關:料理教學、美食節目或食物競賽等,例如「料理東西軍」就是國內觀眾耳熟能詳者。這種風氣使得一般的餐廳也積極追求美味,希望獲得媒體注意闖出名氣。 整個東京市有近16萬家餐廳,比起巴黎的1萬3千間多出了10倍以上。 不論大眾化或高級餐廳,日本廚師都在食物上下足功夫,回應顧客的需要。開店超過100年的「神田松屋」,一分蕎麥麵約只要台幣230元,以日本物價而言算是非常便宜,卻是師傅手工揉製而成,麵條沾汁則由10天前熬煮靜置「熟成」後的高湯調製而成。東京的天婦羅餐廳「宮川」,一分午餐要價台幣約640元,在日本也算是中低價位,但店內食材都是主廚一大早到築地市場採買的新鮮貨,而非冷凍品。 便宜的餐廳尚且如此,走高檔路線的餐廳對食物和料理方式的講究更不用說。日本人還不只講究本國料理,外國菜也力求道地,廚師遠赴外國學藝理所當然,連廚房設備和刀具碗盤都講究要從料理的發源國進口。 美食評論家橫川純指出,許多日本人被問到嗜好時皆答稱「吃和走」(tabearuki),即走路尋訪好吃店家,彷彿所有日本人都愛好美食。 隨著米其林東京指南的大成功,米其林亦有發行京都指南的計畫。 【2008/02/06 聯合報】 |
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米其林評鑑》食材「鮮」堅持 打響日本美食
去年11月,美食評鑑權威米其林指南首次發行東京版,日本美食初試啼聲便一鳴驚人,以總星數191顆遙遙領先巴黎98顆。東京躍居世界美食之都的光環背後,其實有著日本廚師對料理的堅持。
三星餐廳 東京有8家
美國新聞周刊報導,米其林東京評鑑出爐後,各方人士頗不以為然。法國人辯稱,巴黎人口只有東京的1/3,若以總星數除以人口數,巴黎的平均星數還是比東京多。再者,2007年米其林評鑑中,巴黎的最高等級三星餐廳有10家,東京有8家,以此而論巴黎也占上風。
除了法國人,日本國內也有質疑的聲音。美食評論家質疑米其林的歐美評審究竟懂不懂日本美食文化,日本師匠級的餐廳未能入選,反倒是徒弟自立門戶的餐廳得到米其林青睞,違反日本人重視的師徒輩分精神。
倒閉邊緣 食材仍要好
圖/聯合報提供 |
日本菜能獲米其林高評價,來自廚師的努力。2003年,奧田徹在東京銀座開了一家餐廳,一圓心中多年夢想,端上桌的皆是精心製作的菜色,例如以木炭燒烤河豚,或是新鮮雪蟹佐魚卵。沒想到生意非常慘澹,有時一天只有兩、三個客人,他和店內廚師得想辦法吃掉剩下的食材,餐廳處於倒閉邊緣。不過他的堅持終究得到回報,米其林評鑑東京版將奧田的餐廳「小十」(Koji)評為三星餐廳。
裝潢普普 壽司超美味
另一家三星餐廳「數寄屋橋次郎」(Sukiyabashi Jiro)沒有華麗裝潢,店內甚至沒洗手間,因高齡82的主廚小野次郎想的只有一件事:如何買到最好的食材。美食評論家橫川純說:「我只去過一次,但真令我瞠目結舌。他們表現出壽司的極致。」
獲選為二星餐廳的京都「菊乃井」(Kikunoi),光是高湯就有許多要求。熬湯的水取自老闆老家的井水,每周用卡車運到店裡。柴魚片是用九州近海捕獲的鰹魚製成,厚度必須為1/3公釐。昆布產自北海道,從採收到自然乾燥費時一年。菊乃井老闆村田吉弘說:「我們用最好的食材。」
倫敦泰晤士報美食評論家柯倫(Giles Coren)是日本食物的支持者,對法國菜則不屑一顧。他說:「我在日本吃過最難吃的菜,都比法國最頂級的菜好吃。」
【2008/02/06 聯合報】
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