九寨溝諾日朗瀑布美景,吸引攝影愛好者取景。
記者鍾豐榮/攝影

九寨的五絕,已有萬千文字形容;但最終還得自己身入其境,才體會得到寫字人的感動。

諾日朗瀑布 中國之最

五絕裡,最美是翠海,也就是當地人稱的「海子」—「海的孩子」。傳說4,000年前的藏族人,沒眼見過海之美、海之闊,於是將高原上溝子裡,珍珠般圓潤美麗的湖泊稱為海子;海子的繽紛,是陽光、水藻與沉積物合作的成果,形成各種層次的藍,變化萬千的美。

這些晶瑩璀璨的冰磧湖不易透水,多數入冬不結冰、終年不會乾涸;而海子的水滿溢出來,就形成了瀑布,最雄偉壯觀的是諾日朗瀑布,瀑寬百餘公尺,也是中國之最。

繽紛經幡 唯一「人工色」

不論秋冬,九寨溝的顏色都是燦爛而繽紛;其中,隨風翻轉的經幡是唯一的「人工色」。經幡是藏族信仰的表現之一,多數是長數丈的紅、白、黃等色的布料或綢緞,印上經文、豎掛在旗杆上,每隨風吹動一次,就代表念過一遍經文,又稱為「風轉經」。

另一種相同意義的「手轉經」,則是手執的長圓形「瑪尼」或是比人高的「瑪尼筒」,每轉一次即當頌經一遍,轉動千次如頌經千遍;不少虔誠的藏民,就在瑪尼手轉經與瑪尼筒不停的轉動中,走完一生。

青稞酒又稱藏式啤酒 酸中帶甜

旅遊必備的吃與買,在九寨溝行不通。不論淡旺季,溝裡的物資永遠貧乏,米飯難熟、菜色變化極少,即使入住五星酒店依然如此,對美食的期待不要太高,飽足即可;推薦藏族人家的青稞酒,酒色微黃、酸中帶甜,有「藏式啤酒」之稱,可以嘗鮮。

藏刀不能托運 千萬別買

溝裡的土特產,不外珍貴藥材、山野奇珍,或是羌族刺鏽、藏族手工藝品等,其中藏刀不能帶託運,千萬別買。推薦藏人原音CD(每張約人民幣25元、約台幣100元)、牛角梳(人民幣20~60元、約台幣80~240元)。

【2006/10/31 聯合報】

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九寨溝的五花海美景。
記者鍾豐榮/攝影
 
珍珠灘水色壯麗。
記者鍾豐榮/攝影

很難想像,10月深秋,九寨溝到處擠滿遊客,不時傳來「讓讓,讓讓」的吼叫聲,爭搶得來的飯菜又硬又冷,氣溫低寒得讓人瑟縮在大衣裡;即便如此,九寨溝還是美,美得讓人目空一切;通往天堂的路,不過如此吧!

火花海豔麗清澈 遊客跪地膜拜

導遊說,1992年世界遺產委員會的官員,第一次到九寨溝考察時,從溝口到景區,都被大雨濛住了視線,當他們來到火花海景區,天空突然放晴,陽光穿過雲霧、灑進湖心,妖嬈、豔麗又清澈的火花海走進眼前,這群人震驚得說不出話來,有人就情不自禁的跪在海子邊,向神妙的大自然頂禮膜拜。

這個故事雖不知真假,卻是形容九寨溝之美,最傳神的例子。

九寨溝景區是由「ㄚ」字型的樹正、日則、則查洼三條主溝組成,108個色形各異的湖泊、海子,由飛瀑、溪流與原始林將它們連在一起;溝中每景都是畫,有人稱它是「童話世界」,也有人以「九寨歸來不看水」,將它推捧為「水景」的極致。

三條溝,分別住居三個村寨;看的都是九寨「五絕」─翠海、疊瀑、彩林、雪峰與藏羌風情。三線無法環繞相連,因此非走回頭路不可,好處是每條溝都有兩次機會,即使錯失美景也補得回來。

湖泊成色 每個都不同

九寨最美是「水」,每個湖泊成色都不同,靛青、綻藍、寶藍或五彩,加上彩林倒影、湖心枯木、長不大的魚群優游,湖水瞬間鮮活了起來,不論專業級或初入門,都能拍下風景名信片般的夢幻美景。

環繞三溝,一般旅遊團是一天,但最好安排兩三天。一來是進溝不易,得搭機或拉車從成都輾轉入景;二來是九寨溝的水,得有陽光配合,才能顯色,陽光灑照最美在上午,多留幾天、才能逐一感受。

冬天造訪 不比秋景遜色

10月底彩林褪色,冬雪初降;冬遊九寨最美的時間,是隔年的1、2月,百餘個湖,只有五花海、珍珠灘等兩三個湖會結冰,其他水色依然美麗,只不過是彩林換上雪山,倒影入湖,反倒另收對比之美。

冬天的飛瀑,不再奔騰;而是像卡通般定格在空中,像似超大冰雕;一掛冰瀑雖然凍定、卻又動感十足。

九寨之冬,不比秋天遜色。因為人少,可細賞水色、冰瀑、雪山與藏文化,也免除搶飯、擠人的痛苦;當然,另一種辛苦是「冷」,高原上的極寒,得靠現代裝備來抵擋。

【2006/10/31 聯合報】

 

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U.S.News & World Report
10 Steps to Becoming a Great Leader
Thursday October 26, 4:12 pm ET
By Marty Nemko

Even if you're just a clerk, you can become a leader. A wonderful leader. Here's how:

Envision yourself as a leader in your own image. Great leaders aren't alike. They come in flavors. The naturally great speakers spend more time speaking. The brilliant strategists stay in their office strategizing. The masters of efficiency focus on making every aspect of the business hum. Before you get your first leadership position, assess yourself: What are you best and worst at? Mold your leadership style to emphasize your strengths, and plan to delegate or outsource the rest.

Hire cleverly. No matter what flavor, leaders must hire wisely. Nothing is more important. Don't waste time placing ads--there's too much dishonesty in résumés and cover letters. Better to ask everyone you respect for solid candidates. In job interviews, don't bother asking obvious questions such as "What is your greatest strength and weakness?" It's easy to prepare smart answers to those. Instead, simulate tasks the candidate will do on the job, then grade his or her performance. When you're down to a few finalists, ask each for 10 references. Call them at night, when you know they won't be in the office. Leave a voice mail saying, "I'm considering Joe Amazing for a very important position. If you think he's truly excellent, call me back. If not, don't call." If you get seven or more calls, you have the right person.

Speak well. I'll be honest with you--if you're a dullard, you could learn all the speaking techniques in the world and still be a terrible speaker. But assuming you're bright, here are a few keys to effective speaking: Keep it simple. Use anecdotes and metaphors where appropriate. Speak at a moderate pace and in your most pleasing tone of voice. (Try different parts of your vocal range in a tape recorder. Learn to use your favorite.) Do the same in everyday communication, but remember that the key to effective conversation is listening to what is said and what is not said. Also, watch for changes in body language. Listening well is much more difficult than people think. And it's crucial.

Develop an inspiring vision. You can develop an exciting vision for your employees, no matter how mundane the organization. Let's say you're heading the long-term-care division of an insurance brokerage. All but the most jaded employee would be inspired by your announcing: "We are going to ensure that all of our customers get the very best insurance at the very best price, which will give them the peace of mind and security they deserve, without breaking their budget. We're going to trumpet our excellence so we get more customers. And with all the money we're going to make, I'm going to ensure that you are all well paid. We'll even adopt a local school, and I'll give it 5 percent of my own salary. We are going to make a difference in our community." Throughout every moment of every day, live the realization of that vision. Work hard to follow through on implementing that vision, and celebrate little accomplishments along the way. Be generous with praise, cautious with criticism.

Fire fast. If quick efforts to remediate a bad employee don't work, fire the person quickly. A bad employee can infect the rest. To avoid lawsuits, try to counsel the person to leave voluntarily, offering to help the person find a position at which he or she might be more successful.

Prioritize decisiveness over inclusivity. The best managers know when to encourage team involvement in decision making and when to act unilaterally. Today's corporatethink too often emphasizes decision making by consensus. Usually, the result is a tepid idea that took a long time to generate. It's hard to get a bold idea that an entire group will agree on. Great leaders generally get a modest amount of input and then make bold decisions on their own.

Know just enough tech. You don't need to be an expert at information technology, accounting, or the science behind your product. In fact, acquiring high-level tech expertise is usually not a good use of a leader's time. You must simply know enough about these fields to be able to understand, ask questions, and then provide direction to those technical experts. Often, the best way to do that is what I call the "Hey, Joe" school. You simply call an internal or outside expert in those fields and say, "Hey, Joe, would you meet with me a couple of times to give me an overview of what I need to know about computer servers [or whatever]?"

Manage time. Constantly have a little voice asking, "Is this a wise use of my time?" Nothing is more important than making the most of your time: not a PDA, not a Day-Timer, not a filing system, not anything. Effective leaders don't rush, but they recognize that time is their most valuable commodity. And they're miserly with it. That means saying no or delegating a task when you could better use your time elsewhere. It also means that everything doesn't need to be done perfectly. Sometimes, good enough is good enough. (But you have to know when!)

Look good. Alas, we live in a shallow, beauty-obsessed society. So, if you don't look good, you start out with a strike or two against you. Fortunately, leaders are not expected to have Hollywood looks. But it's worth a bit of primping to persuade all those shallow folks to think of you as leaderly. Wear attractive suits in timeless designs. Choose moderate hairstyles and makeup. Tip: If you're on a budget, rather than buy cheap new clothes, shop at high-end thrift shops. That $500 suit can often be bought for 75 bucks.

Work long hours. I'd rather disappoint you with the truth than anesthetize you with lies. No matter what you may have heard from Oprah, success at the top generally requires you to work long and work smart. In addition to accomplishing more, working long hours provides a role model for your workers. If you want to work just 40 hours, fine, but don't expect to be a great leader. I know dozens, and their average workweek is 60-plus hours. But there's a big payoff: Being an effective, beloved leader of an important enterprise is one of the best ways to feel that you live a meaningful life.

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當地人以「五絕」概括九寨溝美景,在深秋和初冬轉換季節,僅短暫十來天,得以窺見彩林丰姿;10月15日起拉開超級旅遊旺季的序幕。


鏡海幽情款款,湖畔每個角落各有詩章,教人不意外「九寨溝歸來不看水」所言。
鍾豐榮/攝影


秋冬九寨溝天候變化大,穿著須注意保暖、透氣與防水。
鍾豐榮/攝影

深秋十月,四川九寨溝秋景誘人,斑斕彩林倒映翠湖,用美來形容都顯得乏力。

大概沒有人會駁斥,九寨溝是世界自然遺產中秋色最撩人者,當年聯合國教科文組織的專家來到九寨溝,深深震撼說「在我的顏色詞彙中,找不到恰當的文字來表達九寨溝的顏色」。

當地人以「五絕」概括九寨溝美景,彩林、疊瀑、翠海、雪峰、藏情,只有在深秋和初冬轉換的季節,得以窺見彩林丰姿,約莫短暫十來天,今年由10月15日起拉開彩林序幕,這段時間也是九寨溝的超級旅遊旺季,每天湧入遊客數逼近上限的20000人,11月16日進入淡季,風景區門票將由人民幣220元調降為80元。

九寨溝地處青藏高原的東緣,風景區從海拔1900公尺到3100公尺,彩林覆蓋了一半以上面積,10月山頭已覆蓋上瑞雪,九寨溝黃龍機場旅遊公司楊衛東說,今年由於農曆閏七月,加上多雨,彩林不若往年盛艷。放眼望去,金黃樺樹、赭紅楓槭、澄橘黃櫨,還有墨綠蒼松,山谷五彩斑斕,油畫般天堂場景,依舊美不勝收。

九寨溝旅遊動線以三條山溝為主軸,分別是樹正海、日則溝和則查洼(藏文譯名),排列成為Y字型,108個碧藍似玉的翠湖散落其間,秋遊路線首推日則溝,拿下「九寨畫廊」之稱。

日則溝的精采焦點有鏡海、五花海、熊貓海、珍珠灘等,鏡海如名所指,一幽池水清澈倒映雪峰、紅葉,襯托藏青的高原天空,景致脫俗絕塵;五花海的色彩最是繽紛,走入湖畔步道,湖邊是點點紅黃澄秋色,靛藍湖面則是流光溢彩,彩林彷彿加倍了般,從上方鳥瞰,湖海有如孔雀開屏,只見攝影師各個架好腳架,快門卡嚓聲不絕。

則查洼的長海標高3150公尺,是九寨溝風景區海拔最高、湖泊最深的高山湖,由遠而近,冷竣雪山迤邐,點綴繽紛灌木群,堆疊出豐富層次,下方的五彩池是溝內最小的湖泊,變化出奇的蔚藍湖色,讓秋多了分藍色挑逗。

秋天的九寨溝還有銀色悸動,10月下旬,樹正溝的蘆葦海搖曳銀白花絮,綿延達2公里,風中浪海在陽光照射下,光彩閃耀奪目,也是旅人不可錯過的季節之最。

九黃機場擴建跑道 塞機夢魘不再來

前進九寨溝,今年秋冬不再怕「塞機」,九黃機場甫完成跑道擴建,班機準點率大大提升。

九黃機場位在海拔3500公尺的高原上,2003年開放啟用迄今,由於只有一個跑道,且長度不足,「塞機」一直是旅客揮之不去的夢魘,帶團多年的當地導遊楊衛東說,旺季機場起降頻繁,班機延誤常常一等就是3、4小時,有時甚至遲上一天。

今年6月九黃機場封閉,展開跑道加長工程,8月機場重新開放,班機誤點情況大幅改善,目前機場除因大雪等天候因素而告關閉,起降多順暢正常。

【2006/10/26 民生報 / 牟迎馨 報導】

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Today I read a news about Gwyneth Paltrow went to Brad Pitt's new movie premiere (Babel 火線交錯). 
I really like Paltrow and Pitt. They were a such cute couple!! ^^
Actually I was upset when they broke up years ago.
Well, they all have their own families now...
I still remembered that they met each other in "Seven" (1995).
My favorite Brad Pitt's movie is "Meet Joe Black" (1998). 
It's a great movie! 
Joe Black is the cutest guy I've ever seen in Pitt's movies. 
Strongly recommend "Meet Joe Black" to those who haven't seen it - Go get your DVD!! 
For those who don't know yet....
Babel will be released today (10/27) in theaters.
Haha...and I got to watch Babel after I finish my final~~ ^^;;

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